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Thursday, October 6, 2011

Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim

This is intended to JUSt be a starting point for planning your R2R2R adventure. 

Running the Grand Canyon
Planned date May 5-6, 2012
** I have done my best to provide accurate information, however, weather, venders, rules, regulations and others change.  To ensure a safe and enjoyable trip, personally check all facts.**
In recent years, running the Grand Canyon as become immensely popular, and why not, it is a great adventure with scenery that is second to none.   One of the most popular routes is to run from the south rim to the north rim and back in a single day.  I have used the word “run” here but as you will see, it is more of a fast hike for a large portion for reasons that will become apparent. 
Bit of Background Information
The Grand Canyon is a National Park and is quite popular with millions visiting each year.  Most visitors come to the South Rim, peer into “the hole”, have a meal at one of the restaurants, maybe spend a night and head off to other sites.  Few venture to the north rim or to the river far below.   I had been like the majority of the visitors, just gone to the south rim until last spring when I did the R2R2R as part of a group.  For me, I found that there is many more interesting sites and “things” in the bottom than on the rim.  Due to the popularity of the park, reservations for lodging need to be made as far in advance as possible!

Conditioning/ how hard is this trek?
R2R2R is no cake walk!  I would consider it comparable to a heavy/strenuous 50 mile trail race or a solid 100K.  If you can complete a 50 mile trail race within the cutoff time, you should be OK.  Most do this as a “fast hike” instead of a race so you are not pushing for speed the entire time.  There is a lot a decent and accent, none of it is overly steep, but once you start climbing, you will not get a rest for quite some time.  The trail in the steeper portions is dominated by water bars, logs placed across the trail forming large uneven steps.  Most are odd lengths (half a stride too long or short), so you are always having to adjust making running difficult.  The trails are well marked and 8 plus feet wide in all but a few places.  All trail intersections are well marked so if you can read, you should not get lost.  If in doubt, take the trail more traveled.  There are multiple blogs on the web documenting this crossing with many pictures to give you an idea on what the trail is like and the perpetual awesome views.  The recent Runners World (September 2011?) article in my mind is a good how NOT to do the crossing.  Adjust goals and expectations according to the conditions (they did not).  If things are not going well, turn back BEFORE it is too late!

The Run
The Rim to Rim to Rim (R2R2R) is about 45 miles, give or take a few miles depending on your route.   The traditional route is to start on the South Rim and descend on the South Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch at the river’s edge, then ascend the North Kaibab Trail to the North Rim.  The return trip is back down the North Kaibab Trail to Phantom Ranch and ascend the South Rim via the Bright Angel Trail.  This route avoids the mule trains in the morning and provides water on for the climb out in the afternoon.  There is no water on the South Kaibab Trail between the South Rim trailhead and Phantom Ranch.   Bright Angel Trail is a slightly longer route but has the advantage of when you reach the top, you are only steps away from the lodge.   Elevation change for the South Rim is 4,620 feet and North Rim is 5,841 feet (the North Rim is roughly 1,000 feet higher than the South), so about 21,000 feet of climbing and decent combined!

Popular seasons to R2R2R is spring or fall when rim temperatures are cool and the canyon bottom (Phantom Ranch) is warm.  Temperatures on both rims can be downright cold during the winter and will include substantial snow accumulation.  Temperatures in the bottom can easily climb over 100 degrees F in the summer.   I prefer to avoid both.  The last weekend of April if 2010 found temperatures in the upper 20’s on the south rim at 4:30 AM and mid 70’s at Phantom Ranch in the afternoon.  Like most high elevation deserts, temperatures in the Grand Canyon drop quickly when the sun goes down.
Equipment:
A hydration pack is highly recommended.  A pack allows one to carry plenty of water plus all the other items need.  You will need to carry a full days worth the food (you can buy some items a Phantom Ranch so a bit of cash is good), extra clothes, extra pair of sox ,first aid kit and some emergency TP.  The trick will to be self sufficient without over packing.  Other items include a well broke-in set of trail shoes,  clothes appropriate for the weather,  hat, sun glasses, sun screen- well the same stuff that you would bring an a long self supported trail run.  Phantom Ranch does not stock soft drinks (just ice tea, lemonade, and beer)  so if you would like some “rocket fuel” (Coke or Mtn Dew) to get you up the final grade, bring some down and cache it somewhere near Phantom Ranch- I am planning on doing this next time!   A person could get $5 (or more) a can for a cold Coke on a hot day at Phantom Ranch.

Developed Water Sources: 
Many of the developed water sources are seasonal due to freezing weather during the winter.  Check with the park visitor center to determine availability. There is an adequate number of developed water sources along the trail  to meet your needs if you are carrying a hydration pack, unless it is very hot.  The longest waterless stretch I encountered in 2010 was from Pump House, to the North Rim and back.  There were several seeps and springs between the Pump House and the North Rim that I could have used if I needed, I did not (one should purify this water).

South Kaibab Trail -At the trail head ONLY.  No water until Phantom Ranch
Bottom -Phantom Ranch (year round)
North Kaibab Trail - Cottonwood Campground (Seasonal), Pump House (seasonal), Roaring Springs, a short distance off the main trail (Seasonal)
North Rim Trailhead - (Seasonal) do not depend on it
                ** expect all amenities on the North Rim to be Closed**
Bright Angel Trail - Indian Gardens, 3 mile Rest House, 1 ½ mile Rest House


Travel to and From the South Rim
Getting to and from the South Rim can be a bit of a pain.   South Rim is 4 ½ hour drive from Las Vegas, NV and a bit less from Phoenix, AZ.  From Reno, NV it is a solid 12 ½ hour drive!  Flying to either Las Vegas or Phoenix and renting a car is the way to go for all but the most cash strapped students.
You MIGHT be able to take the shuttle from Sky Harbor airport (Phoenix) to the Grand Canyon.  Check into it, and get back with me!

South Rim Lodging and Food
We stayed at the Maswik lodge at the South Rim.  Two queen rooms are $92 a night and there is a large cafeteria on site to meet everyone’s dinning (fueling) needs.  The rooms were a bit small and dated, but were clean and a welcome site at the end of the day.  The hot shower and climbing into a warm clean bed were major pluses.  BOOK EARLY!
You can buy groceries in the park village, though they are expensive and limited.  Bring your favorite gels, drinks and other trail snacks the like with you!  There is also a Safeway in Williams, AZ on I-40, the last “real” town before reaching the South Rim so you might want to pull in here for your favorite libations and snacks.  Remember the liquid and gel restrictions for carry-on luggage on all airlines.  Don’t have to give up items to TSA!

Date and Time
It is a ways off still, but reservations need to be made.  I am looking at the weekend of May 5-6, 2012.   This is roughly the same time as last year and I think the weather was about ideal- cold, but warmed right up as soon as the sun rose;  not too hot - mid to upper 70’s in the afternoon in the bottom.  We also have a full moon this weekend as well, -good for that early start.
Friday, May 4th travel day
Saturday, May 5th – Do the run
Start the adventure at 4:00-4:30 am at the South Kaibab trailhead
Sunday, May 6th travel day – return home
Monday, May 7th return to work for some much needed rest

Blogs and other Sites
Google R2R2R for a selection experiences others have had!  Here is a couple to get you started.
Here is a blog from the one in the group I went with last year.  You might even see a picture of me!

Others

http://www.grand.canyon.national-park.com/hike.htm    **This is a good link with a spreadsheet of distances, elevation changes and amenities**

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